
Island Peak Summit
They call Island Peak a trekking peak. Don’t be fooled! While it is considered a starter peak and is the choice of beginners, it still sits at a daunting altitude of 6160m (20,210ft), is quite intimidating from up close, and would definitely put your physical preparation to the test.
Best Time
Typically, it is best to climb Island Peak during Autumn or Spring. During these times, the weather in most Nepali areas and the Himalayan region remains stable, which makes it ideal for climbing and trekking.
Since spring is also the right time for Mount Everest expeditions and the favourite season for most trekkers, you may contend for space in the teahouses. But once you get to the Island Peak camping site, the numbers will drop down largely because most people on the trails are only there for trekking.
It is also possible to climb in the winter if you have a lot of mountaineering experience and a really good sleeping bag… in the winter, temperatures are very low and touch around -30C. Not to mention, cold winds pack a strong punch.
Acclimatization Itinerary
Slow and steady is the only way at a high altitude. If you do not have a guide on the trek from Lukla to Chukhung, look at what the trekking companies suggest as an itinerary. Two days at Namche Bazar are an absolute minimum. Additional acclimatization of 2 days might also be required at Dingboche.
Pacing yourself is harder than it sounds. If you are strong and fit, it doesn’t feel natural to walk slowly when you can just bound forward. But there is a reason why younger people are more affected by altitude than older trekkers. I have trekked the Himalayas with a guide and without. With no one to slow me down, I was arriving at the next stop for the night at midday, rather than the usual 4-5pm as itineraries suggest. A very short gain, that was. Lost all of it to altitude sickness which kept me in bed for 3 days I do not remember well (a blessing).
That said, you still need to be fit and strong even for the trek – slow might be the way to go but high-altitude trekking is not a walk in the park. improve your workout routine and include multiple aerobic exercises for several months before your expedition.
Difficulty of the Climb
The Island Peak climb is ranked at 2B in terms of difficulty. Even if you are physically fit, the final 2 days of the climb are quite daunting. Breathing is hard, your muscles are screaming, and some parts of the climb are downright scary.
Taking your time on the way to base camp and giving yourself time to acclimatize will help tremendously.
Clothing and Gear
Since there are limits on how much weight you can carry, it is necessary to choose the right gear. There is a plethora of advice on the internet on what to pack, here is a brilliant and comprehensive one I find easy to follow: https://www.alpineinstitute.com/media/555900/island-peak-equipment-list-2018-.pdf
Do not compromise on the quality of clothing and gear. You will depend a lot on your clothes at high altitudes in cold temperatures.
Some hikers think they can just rent gear and clothing in Nepal. It is not something I suggest if you are not sure you can distinguish between good-quality stuff and a good-looking fake. You may end up putting yourself at a risk.
Food
With a cluster of teahouses every couple of the hours on the trek, you won’t go hungry. Moreover, stopping at tea houses is not just a welcome break, it is also entertainment, it is what keeps you going up that endless hill. So don’t worry about carrying food. It’s the water you need to worry about as you will be going through around four liters a day. Neglect that and altitude sickness rears its ugly head. And since bottled water is either very expensive or otherwise frowned upon (nobody wants that non-biodegradable crap spoiling the mountain), make sure you pack loads of water purification tablets or get yourself a water purifier.
Do your best to make that an alcohol-free experience. Alcohol and altitude don’t mix well and the odds are you will get some degree of altitude sickness
Get a Guide!
Unless you are a seasoned climber and climbing Island Peak is your idea of a weekend escape, you will need professional assistance along the way.
You can probably get away without one on the trek to Island Peak Basecamp by reading a lot and following all the published advice unfailingly. The good news is, you can book a guide just for the climb and even rent some of the gear you would only need on the climb.
Happy climbing and may that be the first of many!
Ramsay Banna
Adventure enthusiast, passionate perpetual beginner