Island Peak Summit

They call Island Peak a trekking peak. Don’t be fooled! While it is considered a starter peak and is the choice of beginners, it still sits at a daunting altitude of 6160m (20,210ft), is quite intimidating from up close, and would definitely put your physical preparation to the test.

Best Time

Typically, it is best to climb Island Peak during Autumn or Spring. During these times, the weather in most Nepali areas and the Himalayan region remains stable, which makes it ideal for climbing and trekking. 

Since spring is also the right time for Mount Everest expeditions and the favourite season for most trekkers, you may contend for space in the teahouses. But once you get to the Island Peak camping site, the numbers will drop down largely because most people on the trails are only there for trekking. 

It is also possible to climb in the winter if you have a lot of mountaineering experience and a really good sleeping bag…  in the winter, temperatures are very low and touch around -30C. Not to mention, cold winds pack a strong punch.

Acclimatization Itinerary

Slow and steady is the only way at a high altitude. If you do not have a guide on the trek from Lukla to Chukhung, look at what the trekking companies suggest as an itinerary.  Two days at Namche Bazar are an absolute minimum. Additional acclimatization of 2 days might also be required at Dingboche. 

Pacing yourself is harder than it sounds.  If you are strong and fit, it doesn’t feel natural to walk slowly when you can just bound forward.  But there is a reason why younger people are more affected by altitude than older trekkers.  I have trekked the Himalayas with a guide and without.  With no one to slow me down, I was arriving at the next stop for the night at midday, rather than the usual 4-5pm as itineraries suggest.  A very short gain, that was.  Lost all of it to altitude sickness which kept me in bed for 3 days I do not remember well (a blessing).

That said, you still need to be fit and strong even for the trek – slow might be the way to go but high-altitude trekking is not a walk in the park.   improve your workout routine and include multiple aerobic exercises for several months before your expedition.

Difficulty of the Climb

The Island Peak climb is ranked at 2B in terms of difficulty. Even if you are physically fit, the final 2 days of the climb are quite daunting. Breathing is hard, your muscles are screaming, and some parts of the climb are downright scary.

Taking your time on the way to base camp and giving yourself time to acclimatize will help tremendously.

Clothing and Gear

Since there are limits on how much weight you can carry, it is necessary to choose the right gear. There is a plethora of advice on the internet on what to pack, here is a brilliant and comprehensive one I find easy to follow: https://www.alpineinstitute.com/media/555900/island-peak-equipment-list-2018-.pdf

Do not compromise on the quality of clothing and gear. You will depend a lot on your clothes at high altitudes in cold temperatures. 

Some hikers think they can just rent gear and clothing in Nepal. It is not something I suggest if you are not sure you can distinguish between good-quality stuff and a good-looking fake. You may end up putting yourself at a risk. 

for more information please contact Ramsay Banna

to be continued…